Day 1
Thursday, 24 June 2010 - 19:30
May 17, 2010
Day 1
Berlin to Hof, Germany
Large cities are to overland expeditions what salt to a slug is, a long painful death. Berlin proved to be a time warp.
It started off well enough. Everyone was up and ready downstairs eating breakfast by 8am. It was a schedule I was determined to keep. We had CNN coming to interview us at 10am giving us enough time for last minute preparations. We would pack while they were around and leave directly afterwards. That at least was the plan.
The Cast and Cars preparing to leave
CNN interviewing Susan
CNN showed up late, packing was delayed by interviews, leaving was delayed by the mandatory group shots, then by set up shots of leaving Berlin, followed by mass chaos trying to leave the city. Wrong autobahn, wrong exit, wrong side of town. In the three hours in which it took us to leave the city we ended up getting closer to Stockholm than Cape Town. I took a solace in that it wasn't the nearly eight hour debacle we had on Trabant Trek trying to flee Istanbul.
Spirits were high as we finally headed South. Tony and I were in the lead for the mere fact that Tony had purchased a map and I speak German. Despite the verbal agreement JLH decided to test his poorly constructed French car on the no speed limit autobahn. He would zoom up to us with a maniacal grin stretched across his face and pull back behind us like some Top Gun maneuver. "I just got up to 140," came his voice across the CB. I could see Tony's face cringe our of the corner of my eye.
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Stopping for gas was like going to disneyland. EVERYONE piled out of the car to ogle the fantastical goods available at German service stations. To be fair the goods were truly amazing, a stunning selection of candy bars, cold refreshing beverages shining behind glass and aisle after aisle of crinkle bags full of fried goodness. Yes I could see how it was like an amusement park ride everyone had to take part in.
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Right before the fireWe expected it to happen, perhaps not as early as it finally did but what's an expedition without a breakdown or three hundred?
Our four vehicles pulled back onto the autobahn slowly; the growl of the massive truck diesel in almost perfect harmony with the tinny whine of the Suzuki's 1.1 litre engine. Production was bringing up the rear getting tracking shots when the CB cackled, "Ummmm….. the French car is on fire!!". Velasco's voice was a mixture of near laughter and acute panic. In the rearview I could see black smoke billowing from behind the car as if it had some Bond-like weapons.
Tony, to his credit, was calm and collect as he exited the car and was nearly blown off the highway by an oncoming truck. The smell coming from the car almost masked the stench of Tony's feet. My first instinct was blown head gasket.
As Tony peered inside the engine the cast and crew, 11 other people mulled about on the side of the autobahn. It was one of those scenes driving instructors warn aspiring drivers about. "Bobby was on the side of the road trying to fix his flat while Sharon looked on. They'd forgotten to put up their warning triangle and suddenly poor Sharon was 20m from the scene suffering from massive brain trauma." Thankfully we have neither a Bobby nor a Sharon on this journey.
Sure that it was the head gasket and fairly sure it had been caused by Susan's five minute stint of driving (Tony found the car in third gear, which at 120km/h could certainly do some damage) we hitched the sad broken smelly car to our with one of or handy ARB tow straps. It seemed illegal (and we later found out it was) to be towing cars on the incredibly fast moving autobahn.
The Tow
Tony and I were quite skilled at such acts of heroism having once towed his broken car with mine over the Great Wall of China with nothing but seatbelts.
We took off slowly gradually reaching 100km/h. At this point I knew this had to be illegal, it was stupid but our choices were limited.
The next large town that might be able to repair the car was Hof, 60km away. The km's melted by and exits for Hof appeared. We decided on the ausfahrt for Hof Nord. The exit disappeared around a sharp bend. As we rounded the curve, Production fell out view which was hastily followed by the CB. "We have a flat," came across loud and clear.
If the scene on the autobahn was a scare story from a disgruntled instructor, three cars pulled off on a blind bend was a guaranteed scenario from a guts and gore movie.
The tire was shredded. Multiple lacerations scarred the sidewall large enough to stick my arm into. It was a truly magnificent blowout, which Velasco handled with professionalism. I was in awe that he hadn't flipped the truck.
Of course tools had not be checked properly. The spare was impossible to get down, which didn't matter much considering we couldn't even get the flat off. Tony and I quickly jumped in our car in search of assistance in nearby Hof.
Other than a single 24 hour fast food place everything was closed. Realizing we wouldn't find any help we opted to find accommodation.
"They want 90 euros for a double room". Tony had just walked out of the one hotel in the whole city, or at least the only one we could find. It was looking grim. I worried about exposing the team to what would be inevitable in Africa, sleeping in a spot of grass and in the cars.
The TireMagically we spotted a campingplatz sign and hurdled in that direction. It too was closed, but the nearby volunteer firefighter station was not. Eight men sat around a firetruck drinking beer. It wasn't the sort of situation comfortably interrupted, but Tony not only strolled up with ease, but brought Brett, the cameraman, with him. As I watched a map came out, arms waved and laughter ensued. "Was this going well?"
"Alright so we have to go towards Bug and then towards Berg". I stared at Tony in disbelief. "Theres a town called Bug and then another called Berg. Berg just means mountain in German". I couldn't help but think the drunk Germans were taking the piss, but as we drove on there it was, a massive sign saying Bug 4km. Either I overestimate my language skills or there is something strange afoot in former East Germany.
The directions Tony had been given were for a 24 garage. Upon arriving we were greeted with a New York accent. Evidently an American traveling around had gotten lost 40 years ago and decided he need go no further. He apologized for not being able to help us, but in turn directed us to yet another place he promised would. It was a Hof scavenger hunt.
The directions to the next place had us passing our two broken down vehicles. It was inconceivable, less than 300km out of Berlin and half of our transportation that was meant to take us across an entire continent was disabled.
We stopped to brief the gaggle of cast and crew who had taken refuge on the hill overlooking the truck huddled in sleeping bags drinking wine. They were brimming with hope we failed to deliver. While Tony was attempting to explain the situation blue lights strobed behind him. "Ah shit, the fucking Polizei, this should be interesting," I muttered under my breathe as I walked over to the slowing cop car.
She was pretty in that cold slavic sort of way. The female officer sitting in the passenger seat spoke in clipped English and was very obviously not happy with the circus she had just stumbled upon. "Why do you not solve the situation? Why is there is a camera? Why are you here? What are you doing? Where is the tow truck?" I shrugged my shoulders, not know where to start or even if I had the answers. "We're leaving right now, we just needed the tire size to try and get a new one," I said hoping that perhaps that would suffice as an answer for all of her questions. I just hoped she didn't pull off the exit and see the other disaster of a car. "We wait here, go now!". The irritation was evident. Perhaps she caught a whiff of Tony's feet. It does have strange effect on certain people.
Almost an hour later we turned up with a tow truck. We had no where to sleep and no way to fix either of the vehicles. It was a bit earlier than expected but everyone was getting a taste of what the future held. We spent the night in a grassy lot three blocks from the impound lot where the truck stood sagging to one side. I was anxious to figure out how many days this would cost us. Perhaps, we'd be watching the Final from the 24 hour food place here in Hof.
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The last American troops are to be out of Iraq by Dec. 31. Thousands of others are still in Afghanistan.
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The withdrawal will cap a war in which nearly 4,500 Americans were killed, roughly 32,000 were wounded, hundreds of billions of dollars were spent and the American political debate was consumed until economic woes brought attention back home.
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At times, Obama's language had the echoes of President George W. Bush, particularly in the potential for Iraq to help transform its part of the world. "Our goal is simply to make sure that Iraq succeeds, because we think a successful, democratic Iraq can be a model for the entire region," Obama said.
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